刚刚过去的“五一”小长假驾车走了一个短线,用了两天时间去看东川的红土地。虽然早就知道有个“红土地”备受摄影爱好者推崇,而且从昆明到那里来回不过500公里,但或许是“就在眼皮子底下”的原因,也许还有曾听当地人说“不就是大山上的一些农田嘛”的原故,所以迟至今日才成行。当真正身临其境,面对一路大大小小山头山坡上、沟壑凹地中五彩缤纷的片片农田、处处村庄,不由得会被那种艳丽浓烈的色块一直铺到天边的奇景深深打动,因为这已超出我原有的认识,顿时从心底升腾起不虚此行的强烈感受。当晚住在一个叫“花石头”的小山村,看到一些五花八门的宣传语,其中一句是“上帝遗落在人间的调色板”,虽然俗点儿,但觉得还算贴切.
假期第一天,天气晴好。8:30从昆明出发,先沿昆明—曲靖高速,途中转嵩明—待扑公路,从龙潭出口下,再沿龙东公路(S127的一段)至东川新村(区政府所在地,现叫\"铜都镇\"),可以不进城直接转入新村—杨家湾县道,拾路盘山而上。大约从新杨线24公里处就算开始进入红土地景区了,此后沿途的二三十公里范围内有约10个景点,沿路依次是:水坪子的“红土梯田”和“泥石流大湾”,松茅棚冬瓜沟的“落霞沟”,花沟的“红土地大观”和“老龙树”,再往前行至花石头村时有一丁字路口,往右走有“锦绣园、”“七彩坡”、“打马坎”,往左走有“乐谱凹”、“瓦房梁子”等。在方圆百里的区域内,集中着云南红土高原上最典型、最具特色、也最迷为人的色彩、线条和光影,被誉为摄影爱好者的天堂。
一路观景,不时停车拍摄,约14:30来到花石头村。这里地处景区的中心位置,景点都在其前后一二十公里范围内,来去方便。拍摄讲究光线,订好房间后请教客栈老板,热心的张老板当即手绘线路示意图,指点我们应该先去看“锦绣园”、“七彩坡”,要在16:30前赶到“落霞沟”,然后再去“乐谱凹”、“瓦房梁子”,19:00回到客栈晚餐;第二天清晨6:40前赶到“打马坎”看日出,如计划返程的游人回客栈早餐后,上午原路返回时可选择自己喜欢的景点再看看。实践证明,这个线路安排比较科学,时间和光线都还恰到好处。当然从摄影角度讲,因地理位置和季节的关系,加上拍摄者的不同视角和喜好,不同景点在各自心目中有着不同的最佳拍摄时机。但总体上我的感觉是,上午9:00前“红土地”的色彩略显暗淡,但比较温润;中午在强烈光线直射下显得有些干涩;下午三四点钟以后至傍晚是较好的拍摄时段,光影效果好(除了拍日出)。有一种说法,雨过天晴的“红土地”色彩最为艳丽。虽然这次没有遇到这种时机,但我相信这种说法是正确的。
红土梯田(D1中午)
道路沿新杨线盘山而上,行至约24公里处,最先进入视线的景点是“红土梯田”。峡谷对面整座山体从山脚到山顶开垦着大面积梯田(其实我们所在的这面山体也是梯田)。梯田随山势变化而变化,自然成形,任人遐想;大山上一处处绿荫簇拥的村庄显示着人们顽强的生存意志。
泥石流大湾(D1中午)
继续盘山而上,道路延伸到山梁。这里往北看是红土梯田峡谷;往南看是一处泥石流峡谷,山脊刻满了岁月的痕迹,让人有“地老天荒”的感觉。
我虽无恐高症,但站在悬崖边拍沟底,一阵阵强劲的山风袭来,仍不免有些心虚。
红土梯田峡谷全景。过了山梁,道路顺山势转了一个弧形大弯,在弧顶处可将整个红土梯田峡谷收入眼底(D1要赶路没在这里停留,片子是D2上午回程时拍的)。继续前行就到松茅棚村。
过了松茅棚就来到花沟,这里是海拔约2600米的山顶台地,地势开阔,也较平坦,丘陵自
然起伏,地里种有大面积的麦子和土豆。因地势高可以看到很远的地方。我很喜欢这里,D2上午回程时又在这里停留。 从花沟继续前行就到了花石头,这里是花沟行政村的一个村民小组,坐落在新杨线丁字路口处。随机选择了一家叫“山里红酒家”的客栈落脚,老板姓张,热情指点我们接下来的游览线路。据了解,这一带农家客栈平时一般40~50元/标间或单间,大假期间价格翻番。一路过来,松茅棚、花沟都看到不少客栈,因此在红土地吃住是不成问题的。 锦绣园(D1下午,D2早晨)
距花石头约2、3公里。这里是一片很大的凹地,沿山腰的高处建有一条观光栈道,视野开阔。
第二天早晨看了日出后路过这里又作了停留。 落霞沟(D1下午)
约16:20来到松茅棚冬瓜沟村的落霞沟。顾名思义,这里在太阳余晖下的景色最美。因景观地处三面环山的深谷,阳光离去的得较早,最佳的观景时段是16:00~17:30。 进了村子,车停在一片空地上。这几个孩子是大人派来收停车费的,一次5元。 瓦房梁子(D1傍晚)
过了乐谱凹继续沿公路前行就到了瓦房梁子。估计是在高高的山梁上坐落着一个小村庄而得名。在这里可以居高临下看到近处和远处的红土地。有趣的是,还能见到身着羊皮袄、手提长烟袋、携着彝装的老伴及孙女的祖孙三人,他们以红土地为背景供游人自由拍照。当然多少得给老人一点钱,因为当“模特”也是一种劳动付出。
19:00多回到客栈,看到院子里搭了一片帐篷,原来是一群重庆来的游人因没有了房间,用上了自己携带的帐篷。这是一个好思路,外出自带帐篷以备不时之需,特别是大假其间。在客栈晚餐。
三菜一汤52元,价格与昆明差不多。第二天的早餐是荷包蛋面条,5元一份。 打马坎(D2清晨)
距花石头约10公里。凌晨5:50起床洗漱后就准备前往打马坎看日出。不料车子被困住,急忙叫客栈服务员唤有关车主挪车,总算等来挡在左边车子的主人,他们也是要去看日出的。赶到打马坎时已近6:30,沿公路边一溜停放着几十辆各种车辆,找了一个空位停好车,爬上一个小山坡,窄窄的观景栈道上已人满为患,早已没有了好的拍摄位置。6:40太阳从远处的乌蒙山山顶厚厚的云层中露出了红红的脸庞,一时间相机快门声响成一片。因没占到好位置,没有拍到好的“日照红土地”的景象,就上几张“狂热”的拍摄人群吧。 回程(D2)
回到客栈早餐后就原路返回。仍是一路边走边看,还在一些景点作了停留。约11:20来到东川新村(城区),开着车在城里乱诳。有资料称,东川踞乌蒙,濒金沙,自西汉建元六年(公元前135年)设立堂琅县至今,有史可考2100余年。这里曾有着丰富的铜矿资源,孕育了上千年的古铜文明,铸就了“天南铜都”千古风流,故现在东川城区改称“铜都镇”。过去东川是云南省的一个直辖市,因铜资源以已尽,1999年撤市建区划归昆明,是距昆明最远的一个县区。这里地处金沙江支流的小江泥石流干热河谷里,海拔1200多米,中午气温已很高,在街上找到一家环境不错的咖啡屋,品着咖啡,吃着冷饮,回放着片子,避过正午的日头,直到14:30才启程返回昆明。出了城区就遇到塞车,。
回程路上,思绪仍停留在那一幅幅色彩缤纷的美妙画面中。转念想想,其实造就“红土地”景观的不完全是“上帝”,更多的要归功于当地百姓千百年来辛勤的劳作。是他们,在这片较之云南其他地方的泥土更红一些的红土高原上,用自己勤劳的双手开垦出片片农田,又年复一年按季节种上不同的庄稼,才展现给人们这种宏大而秀丽的景观。从这个意义上讲,老百姓就是创造这种美景的“上帝”。
Rides the dongchuan in yunnan red
Past \"51\" little long vacation to drive away a short term, with two days to see the dongchuan red. Although there is a \"red\" has long been known that the toast photography enthusiasts, and 500 km from kunming to back and forth but there, but perhaps is \"as good\late today to attend. When true, as it were, in the face of large and small mountains all the way the slopes, ravines, in colorful patches of http://www.ks-yfmj.com/ farmland, villages, everywhere I will be strong that gorgeous color piece has been moved to the wonders of the sky, the shop because it is beyond my original understanding, strong feelings immediately from its worth goes up from the bottom of my heart. The night lives in a village called \"flower stone\although common, but thought is appropriate.
The first day holiday, sunny weather. At 8:30 start from kunming, the kunming - qujing first high-speed, turn on the song and Ming - stay on highway, from the outlet of longtan, then along the east road (a S127) to dongchuan xincun (district government is located, is called \"copper is town\"), might not directly into the new village in the city - yangjiawan county &general, pick up the winding mountain road. About new Yang line 24 kilometers even began to enter the red scenic spot, then along the way about 10 and 30 km range of attractions, the road is in turn: water ping son \"laterite terrace\" and \"mud bay\wax gourd \"sunset ditch ditch, ditch\" red mark \"and\" old dragon tree \stone, a t-junction, right away with \"splendid garden,\" \"colorful slopehe left has a concave \"musicypical laterite plateau of yunnan, the most unique, most fans of colour, line and light, has been hailed as a photographer's paradise.
About comes to view all the way, stop from time to time, to take the stone village. Here is located in the center of the scenic spots, tourist attraction in its scope of before and after a decade or two kilometers and convenient. Pay attention to the light, good room booked after consult the innkeeper, warm-hearted zhang boss immediately hand draw circuit diagram, show we should go to see the \"splendid garden\\"sunset\in front of the ticket, and then go to concave \"music\\"old enemies,\" clearly returned to the inn dinner; Early the next morning before 6:40 to get \"the horse camp\" watching the sunrise, such as plans to return visitors back to the hotel after breakfast, on the morning of the original road return can choose their favorite attractions to see. Practice has proved that the circuit arrangement is more scientific, time and the light is just right. From the perspective of photography, of course, because of the relationship between geographical position and season, and different perspective of the photographer and preferences, different sites have different optimal shooting opportunity in their mind. But my sense is that on the whole, before 9:00 in the morning \"red\" color slightly dim, but relatively moist; At noon a bit dry under strong sunlight directly; After three at four o 'clock in the afternoon to the evening is a good shooting time, light and shadow effect is good (in addition to shoot sunrise). There's a saying, \"red\" color are the most gorgeous after a storm comes a calm. Although this time didn't meet this time, but I believe that this statement is correct.
Laterite terrace (D1) at noon
Path winding along a new Yang line, the line is about 24 km, is the first to enter the line of sight spots \"laterite terrace\". Valley across the entire mountain from the bottom to the top of the mountain reclamation with large terraces (in fact, we are in this mountain terraces). Terraces changes over to landform, natural shape, allow to daydream; Dashan at shade on surrounding villages shows that people with strong will to survive. Debris flow large bay (D1) at noon
While on the continue winding mountain road to the mountain ridge. The clay terraces are here to look north valley; To look south is a debris flow valleys, ridges moment full of years trace, let a person have the feeling of \"the end of time\".
Although I have no fear of heights, but standing at the edge of the cliff groove, a burst of strong wind blow and still have some guilty.
Laterite terrace canyon view. Along the mountain ridge, the road turned a large radius arc, in a couple of the laterite terrace can be canyon views (D1 road didn't stay here, the film is taken D2 morning on the way). To move forward is to loose thatched hut village.
The huts came to flower groove, there is about 2600 meters above sea level the top of the platform, open terrain, also relatively flat, hilly natural ups and downs, the field has large areas of wheat and potatoes. Because of the terrain can see far away places. I like here, D2 on the way back and stay here in the morning.
From flowers stone ditch move on there, here is a flower groove administrative villages of a villagers' group, is located in the new line at the junction with Yang. Randomly chose a company called \"dried crataegus pinnatifida restaurant\" locate inn, boss zhang, enthusiasm to show us the next tour routes. It is understood that this area farm inn normally 40 ~ 50 yuan/standard or single, big holiday prices doubled. All the way to come over, pine thatched hut, spend ditch all see some inn, so eat live in red is not a problem. Jinxiu garden (in the morning on the afternoon of D1, D2)
About 2, 3 kilometers away from flower stone. Here is a big hollow, along the hillside a sightseeing road, built the high places of the vision.
The second day after watching the sunrise in the morning passed stay here again. Sunset groove (D1) in the afternoon
\"Truly come loose huts wax gourd gully in the village of sunset. As the name implies, here in my view under the light of the sun. Because the landscape is located in the mountains around from three sides of ravines, sunshine away too early, the best viewing time is from 16:00 17:30pm.
Into the village, the car is parked in a clearing. These children are adults to collect parking fees, a 5 yuan.
Old enemies (D1) in the evening
The score of the concave went on along the road to old enemies. Estimation is on the high mountain ridge is located in a small village in the name. Here you can overlook the nearby and distant red. It is interesting to note that also can be seen in sheepskin coat, portable
long pipe, with yi's wife and granddaughter to grandchildren, who to freedom as the background for visitors to take pictures. How much have to give the old man some money of course, because when the \"model\" is also a kind of labor cost.
Number is returned to the inn, more see the yard set up a tent, turned out to be a group of chongqing to visitors because did not have the room, using the carry their own tents. This is a good idea to go out with a tent for a rainy day, especially big fake it. In the inn for dinner.
3 dish one soup 52 yuan, price and kunming. Poached egg noodles for breakfast the next day, a 5 yuan.
The horse camp (D2) in the morning
About 10 kilometers away from flower stone. Get up at 5:50 am cleaned up and is ready to go to dozen Markham, see the sunrise. Only to find the car trapped, hurriedly call inn waiter calls related to car owners, at last to the owner of the car on the left, and they are going to see the sunrise. Nearly at 6:30 got to the horse camp, dozens of all kinds of vehicles parked along the road side slip away, looking for an open parking, climb a hill, narrow the view on the plank road is crowded, already did not have the good shooting position. 6:40 thick clouds of the sun from the distant WuMengShan showed a red, red face, and at that time the camera shutter sound. Not account for a good location, no photographed the scene of a good red \"sunshine\" on a few \"fever\" of the crowd. Return (D2)
Back to the original road inn breakfast and then return. Is still a road walk, also made a stop in some scenic spots. About 11 to dongchuan countryside (town), driving Kuang about in the city. Dongchuan wumeng ju, sources said, sands, since the western han dynasty jianyuan six years (135 BC) to set up the hall county, up to now, has become more than 2100 years. Here there was rich in copper ore resources, bronze civilization for thousands of years, made the south that is \"day\" eternal love, is now renamed dongchuan city \"that town\". Dongchuan is a municipality directly under the central government of yunnan province in the past, for copper resources to have to do, the market in 1999 as the building of the area of kunming, is the furthest away from kunming counties. Here or debris flow in the dry-hot valleys (DHV) is located in the Yangtze river tributaries, more than 1200 meters above sea level, the temperature is very high, at noon on the street to find a nice cafe environment, tasting the coffee, eat cold drink, playback with film, avoid the midday sun, until comes to start back to kunming. Out of the city traffic jam.
The way back, my mind is still in these wonderful images of colour profusion. On second think, incomplete is actually created the \"red\" landscape \"godhanks to local people to hard work. Are http://www.ks-yfmj.com/post/159.html they, in a more red than in other parts of the soil of yunnan laterite plateau, with their own industrious hands clearing out the patches of farmland, and year after year according to the season to plant different crops, and to show people the grand and beautiful landscape. In this sense, people is to create the beauty of \"god\".
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